Savannah wins for trees and architecture and squares and weirdos and….
Savannah is so, so beautiful. What I liked best about where I grew up in Red Bluff, California were the oak trees. Savannah has indescribably magnificent oak trees. Huge branches sweeping so low sniffing the ground. Many but not all have moss hanging so pretty – as if Martha Stewart herself decorated them.
My favorite square was Reynolds’s Square. It was very small but the trees were a tangled masterpiece.
I celebrated Halloween by taking a ghost tour. Before catching the trolley I toured the riverfront. I had a cup of crab stew at The Cotton Exchange for dinner and had a sour apple daiquiri for dessert – then the tour. It really was lame. Oh well.
I got home last night to no air conditioning. And it was hot. And humid. Nearly 100% humidity. I made it through the night – and this morning everything inside Bird was moist (yes, moist). And stinky. Did I mention that my refrigerator broke two days ago? Fuck that thing. This will be the third time I’ve had to throw food away. I’m not doing that again. But — back to the a/c…..that — I can not live without. I called a repair guy and he suggested I check the breaker. Sure as shit – that was it! I used my blow drier before going out last night and that must have done it. I literally slept with sweat dripping on the fuse panel. Duh. Duhduhduh.
This morning I went into town and started with breakfast at B Matthew’s and had shrimp and grits. Yummy. I had no intention of walking today. I wore the least amount of clothing I could pull off – including non-sensible sandals. I was going to take a trolley tour. But, after last night I was kind of sour on the trolley. I read that the bus is free downtown so thought I’d use that. Of course I ended up walking everywhere. Savannah is great in that every couple of blocks there is a gorgeous square with shade and benches. I walked and rested and walked and rested my way all over.
Hurricane Matthew did serious damage and they’re still cleaning up piles. One of my Uber drivers filled me in on how the city can’t pick up all the piles. Certain trucks are for certain piles and nobody knows which is for what. He also pulled me in close and whispered that everyone in Savannah is “batshit crazy”. Hahaha. I really do love it here – except that humidity which I know you get used to.
I saw the outside of the Andrew Low House – I saw the inside last night.
I saw the Mercer House (Jim William’s House) on the outside and went into the carriage house. I also saw Clary’s. I feel like I saw quite a few places in one of my very favorite books, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. I got my love of reading from my grandma, Nanny. She was a librarian. That was the only book I ever gave her to read that we disagreed on. She thought it was too naughty and I couldn’t get her to understand that it was a true story! I miss Nanny.
I followed the steeples on the horizon to find the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. So pretty.
I had a beer and another cup of crab stew at Crystal Beer Parlor. It was better than last night’s cup but both were superb.
I walked through cemeteries with tombstones too old to read and finally Forsyth Park. Just before I crossed the street into the park I broke my rule. I looked up at a house while walking. And ate SHIT so hard. Savannah sidewalks are old oldie old and just waiting for a fool tourist to look up so they can have knee skin for dinner. It’s I good thing I’m done for a few days. I plan on sitting and visiting with Susie for the next few days.
My friends Buddy and Shelby from Portland are in Tennessee and may meet up with me to go to New Orleans! Can you imagine how ugly that could be? I guess only those of you who know Matt Rhoads and Shelby…..and me! Oh I hope it happens!
Onward ♋+♊
The Lolo Down 