Month: November 2016

I decided to take the northern route home through Arkansas and Oklahoma. It took me back up through Mississippi which gave me the opportunity to try hot tamales. I chose Solly’s Hot Tamales in Vicksburg Mississippi. It took me a few passes to find the place. Delta hot tamales are kind of like Mexican tamales except they are thinner and instead of being steamed, they are cooked in sauce. I enjoyed them – but they are certainly no Gonzales family tamales!!! 

I didn’t make any other stops except to sleep and eat. In Amarillo I stopped at Big Texan to eat and park for the night. It was awesome. The food was just meh. But the scene was everything. I had no cash – none – so I couldn’t tip the roving band to play a song for me. Big regret. Then I stopped in Albuquerque at Mary & Tito’s Cafe for a sopapilla covered in red chili sauce. They’re the best….period. 

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As I drove I listened to NPR and music up until the return trip. Then, I turned my murdery side free. I listened to podcasts – nonstop. I started with the first season of Serial. Then on to My Favorite Murder – I love those girls. We would totally be friends. Finally I started in on Last Podcast on the Left. These guys are everything! They actually research killers and have good facts. They’re also twisted comedians who are so vulgar. I love it. I’m currently listening to John Wayne Gacy and then Jeffrey Daumier. I don’t think I’ll finish before I get home but….

I woke up in Gallup New Mexico Sunday morning and it was cold! I got CBS and so snuggled under the covers to watch “should be president elect” Bernie Sanders on Meet the Press. I only had an easy six hour drive home. 

I got diesel and hit the road stopping once to pee and make a sandwich and once to get gas. I also gave Bird a quick wash at a do-it-yourself place with tall bays. She had some gnarly bug guts. According to gps I was to get home at 3:45pm. 

Suddenly my eta changed to 5pm. The distance stayed the same. Gps gave no explanation for the sudden change. It became apparent soon enough when an overhead sign warned of a car fire in 20 miles. That accounted for the now 1.5 hour delay. I sat in traffic that long. I did snap a photo of the wreckage as I finally passed. It looked pretty good – worthy of the soul crushing traffic jam. 

This is all west of Flagstaff. So I jig on towards home. I’m thinking of all the things I’m looking forward to….a shower followed by a bath. Cooper most of all. Cooking. TV. I had Larry tape the new Christmas movies on Hallmark. Those who know me best know that Christmas movies are my guiltiest pleasure. The sappy ones, the unbelievable ones, old ones, new ones, cartoons….. 

So I was looking forward to getting home. I like driving west at sunset. It’s like you’re chasing the sun. I was thinking about my final blogs about this trip and how hard it will be to write once I’m home. So many distractions and other, more fun things to do. 

As I rounded the corner about 10 miles from the Hoover Dam and 45 miles from home there is a scenic pullout where you go up a hill. I really wanted some last pictures showing how beautiful it is right where I live. 

As I went to get back in Bird to leave, I thought I’d check my tires. The road had been very bad and I hit a few bad potholes hard. I’m constantly worried about my tires because I’ve had four (4!) blowouts since I’ve had Bird. It’s a problem. And, as I was driving I felt a shimmy. Sure e-FUCKING-nough I had another flat. The 3rd time the same tire has blown. 

So. What to do? It late on a Sunday. Tire stores are generally all closed on Sunday’s. I could drive with the flat home. It’s the outer tire in a dually set so I could drive on it. But it’s not the best thing to do. I thought maybe Larry would offer to come get me then we could come back tomorrow to deal. But he never offered so I’m staying the night here.

Meow mix. I was sooooo close to home. Oh well. What’s one more night after 72? Bird really does feel like home now. The only problem is that it is so hot I can’t sleep. Good new is I had time to write all this delightful prose! I’m waiting at Discount Tire for them to replace FOUR tires. And all my extension stems which they think are causing the problem. I also lost a hubcap! Booooooo. 

So, that’s the super “fun” end to my super fun trip! I’ll do some postmortem blogs about my trip over the next couple weeks. I also want to keep writing about my life and things I find interesting. We shall see. 

Onward ♋+♊

Turn out the lights….the party’s over. For me. And I guess the democrats for a bit. Today was my last day in New Orleans. I ate the most of it. Yeah, ate. I can tell I’m on the tail end of my trip and oh so tired….I hardly took any pictures. And of all the places I’ve been, New Orleans is so photogenic. Oh well. Gives me yet another reason to come back! 

I got here on Sunday night and Buddy and Shelby (my friends from Portland) drove their van to my RV park because it was within walking distance of all the stuff. I was ready to party down! Them? Not so much. Shocking! Seriously….I’ve seen them really party. But, we did have fun. We walked all over. We stopped for beignets and coffee at cafe du monde which was delicious! And messy. I went back later in my stay and didn’t enjoy it as much. I think they needed to change their oil. But that powdered sugar is everywhere. Even the pigeons had white beaks!

We went on to where I was told we could find live music and that’s exactly what we did. There was a fun band playing with a trombone. We stayed and drank a bunch – then walked back to Bird and they took off. I’m really glad I rushed to see them – it’ll be a lifetime memory. 

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I was on my own Monday thru Wednesday. Monday I went out to get a late breakfast but it took forever to find the place I wanted to go because it was POURING. Not raining. Pouring. All I had was a hat and it was soaked so fast. I skirted from awning to awning. By the time I found Brennan’s, they were closing (2pm). So I researched and decided on another place – but went wrong. It wasn’t until I got my crab cakes that I realized my error. They were inedible. Like eating play dough. Red beans and rice are a traditional Monday Cajun meal – but mine were so salty I couldn’t eat them. My bad. I didn’t make that mistake again. I did go to Verti Marte and picked up a muffuletta to take back for dinner. It was delicious and huge. I cut it into four pieces and didn’t finish it until Wednesday. 

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By the time I made it home, even my underwear were soaked through. I stayed in Monday night – and dry. I got up early Tuesday and made it to Brennan’s. Best breakfast I’ve ever had. Eggs Hussarde was the dish – housemade English muffins, coffee cured Canadian bacon, hollandaise, marchand de vin sauce. The Marchand de vin sauce was something I don’t think I’ve ever tasted – or at least tasted this well done. I had several drinks, too. 

From there I toodled around window shopping. I did buy two Christmas ornaments. One is a real bayou alligator foot. The other a hand painted frog that cost way too much. 

I did learn real fast to have a bunch of folded up one dollar bills tucked around for tipping. There is always someone doing something to get money out of you. If you open your wallet they will try to talk you out of everything you have. If you pull a folded up dollar out, they take it and move on. Serious tip there. 

 
The bartender at Brennan’s had suggested that I go to Jacque-Imo’s for dinner and then to the place next door for music. I decided that I’d take a nap and then go out later. I slept longer than I wanted and when I woke up the election results were coming in fast. That jolted me awake like a cattle prod. I seriously could not believe my eyes. Of course all dinner/music plans went right out the window. I stayed up until 3am watching, stunned. 

I don’t know if anyone else saw this – but on NBC Richard Engel showed up on air in the middle of the night. I totally respect him. I think he’s a great foreign correspondent. But on election night (early morning after) he was crazy. Maybe drunk. It was highly entertaining. I ain’t gonna lie…..I was entertained by the media’s shock. I’ve never heard the media audibly gasp when states are called on election night. They were so sure they had it right – I guess most of us did. 

I keep thinking about Eddie Murphy’s Delirious when he does a skit about voting for Jesse Jackson. It’s not the same but kinda is. He won? 😝

Yesterday (Wednesday), it was all I could do not to go back to Brennan’s. Instead I went to The Stanley. It was really good, too. I had boudin for the first time. It’s a sausage made with cooked rice and meat. Yummmmmm. I had more beignets (well ate one, left two). I bought two kinds of pralines to bring home. 

I met an artist whose work reminded me a bit of Chris Haberman’s. He uses hinges and cabinets – all stuff salvaged from Katrina. He said he used to live in Portland and knew Chris. Small world. Yes, I know some people will say anything to sell their wares. 

I sat and listened to this guy playing a kora – this insane looking African (?) guitar thing. He was sooooo good. 

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Finally, I went to Sammy’s Po-Boys and got a roast beef. I should have eaten it there but I was full and they were shooting a tv show so there was no room to sit. It didn’t matter. That was a dank sammie. Just dripping wet – but somehow that French bread crust maintains its structure allowing you to pick it up. 

That was my trip to New Orleans. I’m slightly ashamed that I never did really anything except eat and drink. I didn’t get out to Tipitina’s. I never had a fancy dinner. I didn’t go to any cemeteries or churches or museums. I didn’t go down Bourbon street (I crossed it many, many times) – it looked gross. I didn’t take many pictures. I did, however, go to Pat O’Briens for two hurricanes (I’m guessing the reason I slept thru dinner Tuesday)!

I fully intend to come back to New Orleans many more times. It’s a great place. Now I head home. I’m staying in Little Rock tomorrow night and Amarillo at Big Texan Steakhouse on Friday. I’m not sure about Saturday – perhaps Flagstaff. Or!!!! Maybe I’ll take an extra day and go up to Cortez, CO and poke around. I love that town. Regardless, I’ll be home by Monday at the latest. 

Onward ♋+♊

I only did a Memphis drive-by. I had intended in spending three days in Memphis and the blues highway. However, I knew I had some friends so close in New Orleans and if I rushed I’d have one night with them. So, that’s exactly what I did. 
One of my goals on this trip was to taste all the different styles of BBQ. Memphis was an important one and I skidded into the place I chose (Payne’s) at 4pm in the afternoon thinking it would be slow before dinner. It was closed. I was the last customer – which embarrassed me to no end. That being said, I bought a regular sized chopped pork sandwich for $4.75 to go. 

I didn’t eat it until I stopped for the night but it weighed a couple pounds – I swear. When I did get to it….what a treat! The slaw had pickles in it and was very tangy. They had chopped crunchy bits of skin into it. It was really, really good. This place was run by generations of the same family – you could tell. BBQ outside and a regular kitchen stove inside. Real old stove. This place looked like it’d been around for 70 years. 

I did a quick drive by of downtown. It looked really fun. Then I sped by Graceland, twice. That was the extent of my Memphis/Blues Highway experience. 

I did continue on down the blues highway but was in a rush. I pulled into New Orleans at 4pm!

Onward ♋

After leaving Savannah I headed west (nooo) to Atlanta. Hiram GA, specifically, to see my oldest friend, Susie. We’ve known each other since grade school! We lost touch but thanks to Facebook we found each other and it’s like no time passed. You know you have a true friend when that happens. 

Susie is a hospital administrator. Before that she was an ER nurse for years. She is a literal badass. On top of saving the lives’ of strangers, she is also raising her niece and grandniece. Iris is 19 and Adeline is one. Plus she has two dogs and a cat, Betty, Archie and Agnes. She’s one busy lady!

I rolled in and she stopped everything and catered to me like I was a queen. I even got her bed! And it was one comfy bed! The first night we drank two bottles of sparkling wine from Brotherhood winery. I think we got a little drunk. It’s so funny how we both watch the exact same thing. Nightly news with Lester Holt, the Today Show and Dateline. Iris was dying!

Thursday we went to Kennesaw mountain national battlefield park to walk the dogs. It’s unbelievable how vast the civil war was. The eastern US is covered with battlefields. It’s sickening how many of each other we killed. Following a “fun” hike, we ate the biggest BBQ sandwich – too much bread. I thought I’d die I was so full. Then we went to see Inferno. It was ok – they changed the ending to make it more exciting….but failed. 

Friday Susie took me to Stone Mountain. It’s funny – I had intended to visit Stone Mountain because it was carved in part by Gutzon Borglum. He also carved Mt Rushmore. However, I had forgotten all about it. Leave it to a friend to remind me to check that off my list! It was beautiful although deceptively deep and difficult to photograph. We rode a tram to the top and had a look at a very expansive view of the entire Atlanta area. 

I felt bad – Susie is very healthy, in extremely good shape and does a ton of hiking. Not only do I not fit that profile in any way, my foot was still black and blue from my Savannah spill. She had to slow it way down for me!

After our trip to Stone Mountain we went to Ponce City Market. That place is pretty amazing. You can go to a tap room, pick from a mast selection of beer and then carry it around the market. There are stores ranging from Anthropology to Jersey & Bourbon. We were hungry but it was too late for lunch and we had dinner planned. 

So, we went to this little bar called El Super Pan and had a snack. I think some of the best food I’ve had on this trip. The pork belly slider was on a steamed Asian style bun and had a spicy sauce. Oh man it was tasty! The thing that put the food over the top was their infused vinegar – one had tamarind. Mmmmmmm. I asked what was in it and our server told us that the chef makes it behind closed doors. Nobody is allowed to know the recipe so if they run out – that’s it. I drank it. Yes I did. 

Susie made us filet mignon and kale salad for dinner. I ate kale salad. Let that sink in. 

I love Susie like she my insides. I now believe that my prize for selling Jam was not getting Bird and taking this trip — but having the time to reconnect with Susie. Seriously. 

My favorite part of this visit was meeting Iris and Addie. Iris was pregnant and in a bad place. Susie went to California, brought her home and has given her an opportunity that so many young ladies never get. And the thing is…..I think she gets it. I hope. She is extraordinarily smart and beautiful. Her baby is perfection. A smiley happy baby. Iris has just begun college. She is facing the difficulty of group work in a junior college (hell – but part of a solid scholastic future), a part time job, responsibility. At 19 that’s a tough reality. HOWEVER, her Aunt Susie has her back. With that force of a woman behind her, she simply can’t fail! 

I got up Saturday morning and headed for Memphis. 

Onward ♋+♊

Savannah wins for trees and architecture and squares and weirdos and….

Savannah is so, so beautiful. What I liked best about where I grew up in Red Bluff, California were the oak trees. Savannah has indescribably magnificent oak trees. Huge branches sweeping so low sniffing the ground. Many but not all have moss hanging so pretty – as if Martha Stewart herself decorated them. 

My favorite square was Reynolds’s Square. It was very small but the trees were a tangled masterpiece.

I celebrated Halloween by taking a ghost tour. Before catching the trolley I toured the riverfront. I had a cup of crab stew at The Cotton Exchange for dinner and had a sour apple daiquiri for dessert – then the tour. It really was lame. Oh well. 

I got home last night to no air conditioning. And it was hot. And humid. Nearly 100% humidity. I made it through the night – and this morning everything inside Bird was moist (yes, moist). And stinky. Did I mention that my refrigerator broke two days ago? Fuck that thing. This will be the third time I’ve had to throw food away. I’m not doing that again. But — back to the a/c…..that — I can not live without. I called a repair guy and he suggested I check the breaker. Sure as shit – that was it! I used my blow drier before going out last night and that must have done it. I literally slept with sweat dripping on the fuse panel. Duh. Duhduhduh. 

This morning I went into town and started with breakfast at B Matthew’s and had shrimp and grits. Yummy. I had no intention of walking today. I wore the least amount of clothing I could pull off – including non-sensible sandals. I was going to take a trolley tour. But, after last night I was kind of sour on the trolley. I read that the bus is free downtown so thought I’d use that. Of course I ended up walking everywhere. Savannah is great in that every couple of blocks there is a gorgeous square with shade and benches. I walked and rested and walked and rested my way all over. 

Hurricane Matthew did serious damage and they’re still cleaning up piles. One of my Uber drivers filled me in on how the city can’t pick up all the piles. Certain trucks are for certain piles and nobody knows which is for what. He also pulled me in close and whispered that everyone in Savannah is “batshit crazy”. Hahaha. I really do love it here – except that humidity which I know you get used to. 

 I saw the outside of the Andrew Low House – I saw the inside last night.

I saw the Mercer House (Jim William’s House) on the outside and went into the carriage house. I also saw Clary’s. I feel like I saw quite a few places in one of my very favorite books, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. I got my love of reading from my grandma, Nanny. She was a librarian. That was the only book I ever gave her to read that we disagreed on. She thought it was too naughty and I couldn’t get her to understand that it was a true story! I miss Nanny. 

I followed the steeples on the horizon to find the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. So pretty. 

I had a beer and another cup of crab stew at Crystal Beer Parlor. It was better than last night’s cup but both were superb. 

I walked through cemeteries with tombstones too old to read and finally Forsyth Park. Just before I crossed the street into the park I broke my rule. I looked up at a house while walking. And ate SHIT so hard. Savannah sidewalks are old oldie old and just waiting for a fool tourist to look up so they can have knee skin for dinner. It’s I good thing I’m done for a few days. I plan on sitting and visiting with Susie for the next few days. 

My friends Buddy and Shelby from Portland are in Tennessee and may meet up with me to go to New Orleans! Can you imagine how ugly that could be? I guess only those of you who know Matt Rhoads and Shelby…..and me! Oh I hope it happens!  
Onward ♋+♊